3d-printable terrain for all your samurai wargaming needs
The new Wooden Sake Cup comes in a few different versions, but perhaps the most interesting is the option to emboss your own design on the front?!
▲ Want to emboss your own logo or name on the front, so it looks like it's been engraved or branded on (like on the version on the right)? Read on.....
▲ The only things you'll need (apart from the STL file for the cup itself) are a black and white version of your logo, and some free 3D modelling software.
* For this example, I used the logo of the Shrewsbury Wargames Society, as it's a nice simple design and looks cool. Apologies guys, for borrowing your logo :)
Some handy 3d modelling software comes included free with Windows10, called 3D Builder, and that's what we're going to be using today! The instructions below show the step-by-step process, and although the blog might look a bit long, it's very easy and can be done in as little 3 minutes. Yes, really! If you don't believe me, check out the 3-minute video at the end!
▲ 1. Open Windows 3D Builder, click on New Scene.
▲ 2. Select Insert from the menu at the top, and then the Cube button.
▲ 3. Click on the cube, and then the Scale button at the bottom.
4. Change the X to 90mm, and the Z to 70mm. This is the same size as the front of the box, which makes it easier to position your logo.
▲ 5. Select Edit > Emboss from the menu at the top.
▲ 6. Click on the Pattern button, and select Load to load your black and white logo file. A simple logo design works best for this, as some of the embossed lines will only be 1-2mm wide.
▲ 7. Unclick the Bevel button.
▲ 8. Click on the Scale button at the bottom, and drag an arrow until you have the logo at the right size (about 50mm x 50mm works best).
▲ 9. Click on the Move button, and drag the logo to the centre.
▲ 10. Click the Emboss button at the top to produce the embossed block.
▲ 11. Here's the finished, embossed block. But we have one more step, which is to reverse the shape because we'll be using the negative of this logo to cut out the box...
▲ 12. Click on the green block, and select Object > Mirror to reverse it.
▲ 13. We've completed the first part of the process, so save the file as a 3MF or STL file (e.g. 'embossedlogo.stl').
▲ Part 2
1. Open the blank version of the box in Windows 3D Builder (or maybe a copy of that file, just to be safe?).
▲ 2. Click on Insert > Add.
▲ 3. Select your embossed logo (e.g. 'embossedlogo.stl') from the thumbnail list or use the Load Object button to find and load it.
▲ 4. Click on the Import Model button at the top.
▲ 5. Drag your logo block next to the wooden box.
▲ 6. Place it against the side of the box, until it just touches. It will sort of magnetise itself to the box when it's aligned. You'll be able to see the logo in between the two boxes, from the side.
▲ 7. Click on the Y value, and add 0.5mm in the text box. In the example above, I changed it from -384.33mm to -384.83mm to move it closer. Push the Accept button.
▲ 8. Click on the embossed block, and select Edit > Subtract from the menu at the top. This cuts the logo block out of the front of the wooden box.
▲ 9. Save your wooden embossed box. You're done!
10. Get printing!
And just to show that the whole process in this really looooong blog can actually be completed in only 3 minutes, here's the video:
Something a little unexpected for you today, as this was a quick and easy design I thought might enhance our gaming tables - a wooden sake cup!
▲ This is what the genuine article looks like, and although they are found everywhere in Japan, they are probably much harder for you to come by in the rest of the world! And I thought that was unfair, as they make brilliant cups for randomly drawing game tokens or even as a dice cup. So I decided to try and make as accurate a replica as possible...
▲ So I did some print tests with various woodgrain patterns, and this is the end result!
The cup is a 90mm square wooden box, with an open top. I modelled curved surfaces inside, so it's easy to grab tokens, and the 60mm depth inside (70mm total height) is enough to prevent players from seeing inside when drawing.
Three patterns are included; a blank wooden version, a version with a 30mm circle inset on the front (for inserting your favourite clan crests), and a version with the kanji characters for bushido (samurai warrior code) engraved on the front.
▲ The 30mm crest symbol for the Yamato Clan (also known as the Imperial symbol) is included in this set, but you might like to match your cup to your army's crest?
But here's another interesting option for you..... this cup makes a great gift, as it's ideal for embossing your own club/shop logo or name on the front, using free 3D modelling software. Tomorrow's blog will show exactly how to do that in just a few minutes! Honestly, it's much, much easier than you might think.
▲ Just one final pic to show you... the box on the left was printed at 0.2mm layers, but I printed the box on the right at 0.1mm layers, curious to see the difference. The kanji engravings might perhaps be slightly neater for the higher resolution print, but to be honest the rest of the wood-grain pattern is almost identical! That was a surprise.
The new design currently printing in the studio is the Samurai Lord's House, and it covers a massive 4'x4' (120cm²) area! So it looks like I'll need to build some extra tables to give it enough space to be assembled.
* I need YOUR suggestions as to what to carve into the tabletop!!! Help!
▲ I already have a couple of 3'x4' tables ideal for Test of Honour, which can be placed together to make a larger 6'x4' table suitable for Warhammer. But this time I wanted to make two smaller 3'x2' tables, which can be placed separately around the studio as display tables, too!
So I started with some cheap 1x4 pieces of pine, laid on top of the existing larger table to make sure the dimensions matched. This produced 2 tabletop 'frames'.
▲ Two thicker 2x4 beams were screwed inside the frames, lifted up enough to fit more 1x4s later.
▲ Next it's time to create some simple legs. I decided to make these simple box shapes from 2x4s, so that the tables would match the shape of the existing tables. Perhaps overkill in terms of wood, but never mind!
▲ Two leg squares were connected for each table, with a thick 2x4 beam on each side.
▲ The tabletop frames were then screwed down onto the leg structure, to make sturdy tables.
▲ The last phase of construction was to cut 1x4s to make the table tops. I just glued these down inside the frames, because they won't be taking much weight.
▲ And there we have it - two completed mini tables!
.... but now I need your suggestions!
I'd like to make the tables a little fancier by carving a couple of small designs into the table surfaces. Any suggestions?
▲ This is a large twin-tailed comet motif I carved into a full-sized gaming table a few years back, when I was making a Warhammer-themed gaming room. It looked pretty nice when finished and wood-stained, so that's why I'm keen to try again on these smaller tables.
If you have any suggestions, please drop them in the comments below? Thanks!
Okay, it's time to reveal the new BIG project for the samurai collection...... the Samurai Lord's House!!!
This is going to be of a similar size and complexity to the large Samurai Castle, but spread out on (mostly) a single level. The model will be based entirely on a real samurai lord's house in Oita prefecture, that I was lucky enough to visit recently and spend a busy few hours taking hundreds of reference photos and videos!
Let's take a look at what's going to be involved....
▲ This is the tourist map provided by the ticket office, and shows just how large this model will be - an entire battlefield in one set!
The main gate is roughly in the centre of a large an imposing outer wall, which will be a new design compatible with the stone walls! The main house is used for welcoming guests and is basically a slightly tall and very large single level, with balconies on 3 sides overlooking a garden.
A narrow corridor to the right leads to the separate residence building, where the Lord and Lady would have lived and slept. Adjacent to the Residence building is the two-storey kitchen building, with access to storehouses and a water well.
At the top left we have 2 guesthouses, which will be connected to the main house by walkways.
Phew! That's a lot of models - 8 buildings, plus extensive walls and gardens!
▲ Oh look! Street fish ponds!! What a coincidence :)
These ponds actually act as a moat for the Lord's house, and are something I just had to make in miniature too!
These outer walls are an eye-catching half-timbered design, and will be compatible with existing wall sets.
▲ The main gate is a pretty substantial structure, with a smaller pedestrian door either side of the main gate doors.
▲ Once through the main gate, this is the view ahead of the main house. It's very ornate, and rather resembles a temple building with those fancy roof lines.
▲ The main house is not actually used for 'living' in, but rather for impressing guests with its grandeur. Lots of open spaces for deadly sword duels!
▲ The main house is connected to the kitchens and Lord's residence via this long, thin corridor. There are numerous rooms and doorways branching off to the sides.
▲ The back of the main house (on the right of this picture) has a long wrap-around wood balcony on 3 sides, which offer great views of the traditional garden. The Lord's residence, where the Lord and Lady slept, is the building on the left in this photo.
▲ To the other side of the main house are two smaller guesthouses, connected via covered walkways. These will also be new building designs included in the set.
▲ Hmm, a very traditional Japanese garden, don't you think? I reckon it's about time to design some suitable trees and bushes to include in the set, too....
▲ This photo puts us back at the main gate again, but this time looking to the right, where a small path leads through an inner wall towards the servants quarters and the two-storey kitchen building. With all those inner walls, it might be a quite defensible position, don't you think?
▲ This is the outside of the Residence building where the Lord and Lady sleep, which again has wooden decks on two sides, offering good views out onto the garden.
▲ Here's the first of 3 storehouses. This is a traditional building, solidly built, and currently being used as a mini-museum.
▲ Another slightly larger storehouse, again with two levels. Similar in design to the previous one, and currently being used as a cafe.
▲ The third of the storehouses, which sits next to another inner wall and gate, and close to the kitchens.
▲ A water well is of course a useful feature of such a large house, and sits close to the kitchen, under this large tiled roof. This will be another new design included in the set.
▲ Work is already well underway on the 3D modelling, and the first job was to match the layout of the real buildings. Including the outer walls and gardens, this layout of the set should cover an area about 120cm x 120cm (4ft²)! It's massive!
Keep your eyes on our Facebook page for progress pics over the coming weeks!
Our new (pretty big!) top secret samurai project is well under way, so while you're waiting, why not take a look at the little terrain set being released today for the samurai collection... a set of street fish ponds!
▲ Old Japanese towns often have extensive water channels running alongside the streets for drainage and fire-prevention, and you can sometimes find koi carp swimming there. This set of modular water channels can add unique authentic details to your samurai board.
▲ The water channels are 25mm wide (approximately 35mm including the stone edges), and include straight sections, wider pond straight sections, and 3 sizes of corner section. 
▲ Here's a popular street scene, with some decorative fish ponds surrounding the town's temple bell.
▲ Also included in the set are small wooden bridge sections and some end stones, so the fish can travel through tunnels under roads and junctions.
▲ These street ponds are super popular with tourists in modern-day historical towns.
▲ Each section can be printed with or without the low bamboo railings.
▲ To make these water channels look realistic, I recommend continuing them from block to block via bridges and (imagined) tunnels, so the whole system looks interconnected.
▲ It really enhances the authentic feel of any town board you play over, and is a truly unique feature of Japan!
▲ Yes, children in old samurai towns would have loved them, too!
▲ The Street Fish Ponds set is available from today!
Samurai Street Fish Ponds 
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